"Was the whale bothered by the net? Did he get wound up in it?" I ask the fisherman, fascinated. I had never had a conversation like this in my life. Growing up on the Kuskokwim river, in Southwest Alaska, I'm used to the language of fishing. But here, words like whales, sharks, and giant octopus can make their way into conversation at any point.
I can feel my horizons expanding by the minute.
North to Alaska
At the beginning of August, we packed a Uhaul with our worldly possessions, gassed up our 17 year old Subaru Legacy, and headed North. We camped for 4 nights on our way to Bellingham, Washington, where we caught the Alaska State Ferry to Ketchikan. The ferry ride was a 36 hour adventure, in which we slept outside on the deck, and contemplated the small and large forested islands of British Columbia. We saw Orcas and Humpbacks, fishing boats, and tiny towns tucked into coves, their Maple Leaf flag waving. Lucas and Maite loved the freedom of wandering all over the boat, and Lucas drew a picture for the ship's Captain, (which the Purser immediately put up at the reception desk) of the Alaska State Ferry of the future, which flies and goes the speed of sound.
Most people rent rooms on the ferry. But unrolling your sleeping bag and claiming your spot on the deck (it was open, but covered by a glass roof) among the other travelers, sets a tone for adventure. You KNOW you are in for an epic experience. My dad, 72 years old and game for anything, happily duct-taped his yellow tent to the floor. He and my mom camped on this same ferry in the early 90's. Twenty years later, camping out had lost its appeal for my mother. She stayed home.
From Ketchikan, we took a second ferry, which took 40 minutes, to Annette Island. The entire island is a Tsimshian Indian reservation, and Metlakatla, population 1300, is the only town.
Welcome to Metlakatla
Back in Colorado we had inspected this island many times over, and from as many angles as we could in Google Earth. In real life it did not disappoint.
From town, we look out onto the bay and see Prince of Wales Island just beyond. Across the water to the North, the Alaska State Ferry moves slowly to and from Ketchikan. In the distance we see the occasional cruise ship. Trees line the landscape of everywhere I look, and fishing boats dot the horizon. This is not like any part of Alaska I've ever seen. The landscape of my childhood was tundra, where the trees were stunted and the weather was extreme. In Bethel, where I grew up, we traveled on bush planes and small river boats in the summer. In the winter we drove cars on the river. Here, I'm told, we can skip the winter parkas. Rain gear is what you want.
Yes, it has rained. Luckily, though, we are here for the end of summer, with it's sunny days and T-shirt weather. The main part of town stretches for two miles along the shore; the streets are paved and narrow, and the houses set closely together. Everything is close --school, post office, store, town government, our house -- and perfect for bikes. While bike riding on a bright, warm day, we found the old dock where the local kids spend hours playing and jumping into the ocean. Luis and Lucas jumped in first, and then, after much prodding by the local kids ("you're thinking too much" they told me), I take the 15 foot plunge. (Once the way was clear of jelly fish).
When you are in town, you can never NOT see the ocean. A few minutes walk from our house, just before the cemetery, is a beach which has become a favorite. The beach is rocky, loaded with driftwood, shells, and interesting rubbery seaweed. Lucas and Maite especially love the long heavy swinging rope tied to an overhanging tree. We have become regulars here when the evenings are clear, armed with matches and marshmallows.
School in in session!
Lucas and Maite have new classes and I have a new job. The elementary building sparkles with fresh paint and fixtures after a year and a half of renovation, and we all walk around, not quite believing that a school can look this good. The classes are bright with colors --Maite's 3rd grade classroom is red; Lucas's 5th grade room is purple. My office used to be the conference room. It is HUGE, with new furniture and all the trimmings. The students love all the stuffed animals and toys I brought. More than one sad kindergartner has found comfort with a furry friend.
So far, so good. Lucas and Maite have made friends, and the teachers have been friendly and welcoming to me. In a role reversal, Luis is now the stay-at-home parent. He has been luxuriating in days where the only structure is seeing us off to school and preparing the meals. For the first time in many years, time is his. Deeply curious by nature, his discoveries are constant.
Actually, for all of us, discoveries are constant. There is so much more than I can ever put into words. You'll have to come and visit us.
Meanwhile I'll keep my eye out for whales.
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| Lucas swings |
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| Maite |
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| A long way from Fort Collins |
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| An Argentine in Metlakatla. Drinking mate on Yellow Hill. |
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| Raven Clan |
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| Lucas, my mountain boy |
